Denim Washing & Finishing: Managing Consistency and Garment Integrity
Washing is the most unpredictable stage of denim manufacturing. It determines the final look, hand feel, and—most importantly—the final measurements of the garment. At Xinen Garment, we view washing as a technical extension of Tech & Pattern Making.
Our laundry process is focused on reproducibility. We recognize that denim, as a natural fiber, reacts differently to heat and abrasion; therefore, our goal is to manage these variables within professional tolerances to ensure bulk stability.
1. Enzyme & Chemical Washing
Enzyme washing is our standard method for achieving softness and a “clean” surface without excessive fabric damage.
- Controlled Softening: We use specific enzyme concentrations to remove fabric stiffness and “hairiness” while preserving the indigo depth.
- Batch Stability: We monitor water temperature and PH levels closely. Small fluctuations in the laundry can lead to shade variations; our technicians check the “shade-out” of each batch against the approved Master Sample.
- Fabric Protection: This method is particularly effective for Denim Fabric Innovation involving lightweight or high-stretch fabrics where mechanical abrasion must be minimized.
2. Stone Wash & Mechanical Abrasion
For styles requiring a vintage, high-contrast look, we utilize stone washing.
- Abrasion Control: We select stone sizes and load capacities based on the fabric weight (9oz-16oz). Incorrect stone ratios can lead to “holes” or weakened seams, so we balance abrasion time with garment durability.
- Grain & Texture: Stone washing is used to bring out the “salt and pepper” grain of rigid denim. We monitor the process to ensure that the friction doesn’t compromise the tensile strength of the pockets and hems.
3. Manual Finishing & Distressed Effects
Distressed details like whiskering, hand-scraping, and grinding are manual processes. Because they are done by hand, slight variations between pairs are natural.
- Template Accuracy: To maintain consistency in bulk, we use physical templates and clear placement guides based on the PP sample.
- Reinforcement Logic: We evaluate the intensity of distressing. If a design requires heavy destruction, we advise on reinforcement stitching to ensure the garment remains wearable after multiple domestic washes.
4. Stretch Performance & Heat Management
Stretch denim is sensitive to the laundry environment. High temperatures can “kill” the elastic fibers (spandex), leading to bagging or loss of recovery.
- Temperature Caps: We set strict temperature limits for both washing and drying of stretch styles to preserve the fabric’s stretch-back performance.
- Recovery Testing: After washing, we check the stretch recovery to ensure the jeans haven’t “grown” beyond the specified fit.
5. Shrinkage & Measurement Verification
Washing is the primary cause of size changes. We manage this through a feedback loop with our pattern room:
- Pre-Wash Testing: We wash fabric swatches before bulk cutting to calculate shrinkage.
- Post-Wash QC: After the full laundry cycle and drying, garments are sampled and measured against the spec sheet. This ensures that the shrinkage occurred as predicted and the fit remains within the allowed +/- 2cm tolerance.
6. Sustainable Finishing (Laser & Ozone)
As part of our Sustainable Manufacturing initiative, we offer laser and ozone technologies to reduce chemical and water usage.
- Repeatability: Laser distressing is more repeatable than manual scraping, making it an excellent choice for high-volume wholesale orders where visual uniformity is a priority.
- Ozone Bleaching: We use ozone to achieve lighter shades, which reduces the need for harsh bleaching agents and protects the fabric’s structural integrity.
