Starting a denim brand is distinct from other apparel categories. Jeans require specialized machinery, complex wash houses, and specific fabric sourcing capabilities. Finding a factory isn’t just about sewing; it’s about finding a partner who understands the art of indigo.
This guide outlines the step-by-step process to sourcing a manufacturing partner that fits your budget, quality standards, and brand ethics.
Phase 1: Preparation (Before You Reach Out)
Most factories ignore inquiries from new brands because they lack professional preparation. To be taken seriously, you must have your specifications ready.
1. The Tech Pack
You cannot manufacture jeans without a Tech Pack. This is the blueprint of your product.
- Measurements: Exact sizing for waist, inseam, rise, and leg opening.
- Bill of Materials (BOM): Buttons, rivets, zippers (e.g., YKK), and thread weight.
- Fabric Details: Weight (e.g., 12oz, 14oz), composition (100% cotton vs. stretch), and weave (Right Hand Twill, Broken Twill).
- Wash References: Photos or physical samples of the desired fade, whiskers, and distress levels.
Pro Tip: Don’t just ask “How much for jeans?” Send a Tech Pack and ask, “Can you execute this specific wash and fit?”
2. Define Your MOQ (Minimum Order Quantity)
Be realistic.
- Mass Market: 1,000+ pieces per style.
- Mid-Range: 300–500 pieces per style.
- Small Batch/Startup: 50–100 pieces (expect to pay a surcharge).
Phase 2: Where to Search for Denim Factories
Do not rely solely on a Google search. Use these targeted channels.
1. Industry Trade Shows (Best for Quality)
Meeting suppliers face-to-face builds immediate trust.
- Kingpins Show: The premier denim supply chain event (Amsterdam, NY, Hong Kong).
- Première Vision: Great for European sourcing.
- Magic Las Vegas: Good for varied price points.
2. B2B Marketplaces (Best for Accessibility)
- Alibaba: Filter for “Trade Assurance” and “Verified Supplier.” Look for factories that only make denim. If they make t-shirts and jeans, they are likely a trading company, not a factory.
- Makers Row (USA): Excellent for American-made, high-end selvedge denim.
- Sqetch (Europe): tailored for European sustainable production.
3. Competitor Analysis (The “Customs Data” Hack)
You can use tools like ImportYeti or Panjiva to search the shipping records of brands you admire.
- Example: Search “Levi’s” or “Nudie Jeans” to see exactly which factories handle their shipments.
! Alt Text: Using supply chain data tools to find jeans manufacturers used by major denim brands.
Phase 3: Vetting Potential Partners
Once you have a list, use this framework to filter them.
Crucial Questions to Ask
- “Do you have an in-house wash house?”
- Why it matters: Outsourcing the wash process adds cost and inconsistency. The best denim factories do laundry in-house.
- “Where do you source your denim fabric?”
- Why it matters: Do they work with reputable mills (e.g., Candiani, Cone, Kaihara), or do they use generic stock fabric?
- “What are your sustainability certifications?”
- Why it matters: Denim is water-intensive. Look for GOTS (organic), OEKO-TEX, or Jeanologia scores (low impact washing).
Phase 4: The Sampling Process
Never go straight to production. The sampling phase is where you test the relationship.
- The Proto Sample: The first draft. Check the fit and the fabric hand-feel.
- The Wash Sample: Critical for jeans. Does the distressing look natural or cheap?
- The Size Set: Samples in every size (28, 30, 32, 34) to ensure grading is correct.
- PP Sample (Pre-Production): The final “Golden Sample.” Production must match this exactly.
! Alt Text: A stack of denim fabric samples showing various indigo washes, whiskering, and hem details.
Finding the right factory for a new jeans brand is a marathon, not a sprint. Prioritize clear communication and a detailed Tech Pack over the lowest possible price. A factory that asks you difficult questions is usually a better partner than one that says “yes” to everything.
Start small, sample thoroughly, and build a relationship based on quality.
